Reflecting on the Season
November 28th, 2017 Missive from J.K. Farm
The winds pick up. The dull grey clouds roll through. Even in the sunlight it doesn’t feel bright and the sun goes down at 4:30 in the afternoon. I had to shut the water down in the kitchen and barns and blow out the lines to prevent freezing and rupturing the pipes. I’m still tying down the vines to prepare the vineyard for its annual hibernation. It’s a different time now. It’s almost hard to imagine summer these days on the farm. I go up to the ridge, to the twin cherries where in summer we would receive our guests as they would climb the slope of the vineyard, mopping their brows and seeking to slake their thirst. The air would be buzzing with insects and a symphony of birdsong. Today the air is quiet and crisp save for the chilling wind blowing through from the north and west. The green has changed to gold and grey and the vines look bare and vulnerable. I reflect on the summer and fill my lungs with this early winter air. It was an amazing season. So many people converged on our farm in celebration of the local bounty. Each week the table was laid; an expression of the moment in its décor as people took their seats and then in each plate and in each glass as the menu and the evening unfolded.
Our special bread oven project was a feature this summer. Taking the whole spring, the construction of the oven slowly took place. Dry stacked limestone salvaged from an excavation taking place on the property formed the foundation. Next a hearth from carefully placed firebricks covered the foundation. Next a dome was crafted using young saplings growing near the creek and bent into a grid resembling a crouching beaver. Finally large clay bricks were produced using earth and clay from the farm as well as purchased clay powder and straw. The bricks were applied, still wet, all over the crouching beaver superstructure and then the oven dried for 10 days before we lit the first fire inside. A series of small fires, over several days, helped to temper the oven. Then she was ready for her first bake. Over the course of the summer, baking bread every Saturday, Chase slowly became acquainted with our new oven, understanding her unique personality more each week. Each week the bread improved. On the Thanksgiving weekend, Chase produced his best work of the summer. The bread was sublime. Perfectly baked with beautiful ears, these loaves disappeared quickly as the guests enjoyed this naturally raised treat with melting butter and salted herbs. This was a fitting way to begin the ultimate dinner of the 2017 summer dinner series. The wines of Norman Hardie Winery and a locally raised Tamworth Pig were the stars of the evening. The balmy autumn weather was easy to take as well.
I will take this opportunity to thank everyone involved in the tremendous success of the dinner series this year. From my own team of cooks, stewards, gardeners, landscape architects, servers, sommeliers, and photographers and communications experts, to our amazing community of collaborators; the producers, growers and makers of all the delicious foods and wines that surround us in Prince Edward County and beyond. Of course for us to put on this show, the biggest thanks of all goes to our guests. All you people who supported this project by purchasing tickets. We hope to see you again next year. Watch this space for news of upcoming projects for 2018. Have a great holiday season!
Photos are by @jodickins from the event on September 30th, 2017:
Saturday September 30th, 2017 - An evening with Hinterland Wine Company, Zero Kilometer Ducks, & David Smythe’s Selected Cheeses from Ontario
Hors d’Œuvres on the Ridge
JK Fries with Two Sauces
Eggplant Canapé
Reduced Tomato Canapé on Crisp Corn Tortilla
Fava Bean Arancini
Creamy Duxelles Éclairs
2016 Whitecap
County Road Beer “Saison”
Menu in the Loafing Barn
Duck Liver Paté
2011 “Sacrement”
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Salad of Garden Vegetables and Duck Gizzards
2016 "Borealis"
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Sunflower Poached Halibut with Griddled Tomatoes
2014 “Rosé”
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Roast and Confit of Duck With Schmalz Roasted Potatoes
2016 "Red Herring” Syrah
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David Smythe’s Selection of Cheeses
with Various Greens from the Garden
2013 Blanc De Blanc
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Pumpkin Flan with Warm Poached Plums
2016 “Ancestral”
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Here are the other three final menus of the 2017 season, not previously covered by a blog post:
Saturday September 16th, 2017 - An evening with Karlo Estates
Hors d’Œuvres on the Ridge
JK Fries with Two Sauces
Pressed Peppers and Onions Sandwich
Marinated Eggplant Canapé
Reduced Tomato Canapé on Crisp Corn Tortilla
Pesto Arancini
2016 Patio Reserve Rosé
Menu in the Loafing Barn
Steamed Garden Beans with Romesco Sauce
2016 Lake on the Mountain Pinot Gris
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Griddled Tomatoes with Toasted Garlic and Bitter Greens
2016 Lake on the Mountain Pinot Noir
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Veal Consommé with Oxtail Ravioli
2016 Estate Grown Pinot Noir
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Pickerel in Brioche
2016 Estate Grown Chardonnay
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Artisan Cheeses with Various Greens from the Garden
2015 Cabernet Franc
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Baked Apple with Caramel Sauce
2016 VanAlstine White Fortified
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Saturday September 23rd, 2017 - An evening with the Good Earth Food and Wine Company
Hors d’Œuvres on the Ridge
JK Fries with Two Sauces
Duck Confit Croquettes with Sour Cherry Glaze
Reduced Tomato Canapé on Crisp Corn Tortilla
Pesto Arancini
2016 Pinot Grigio, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Menu in the Loafing Barn
Cream of Griddled Eggplant with White Garlic
2015 Betty’s Blend, VQA Niagara Peninsula
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Roasted Succotash in Green Tomato Sauce
2014 Riesling, VQA Niagara Peninsula
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Wild Rice Perch with Tomato and Peppers Gumbo
2015 Chardonnay, VQA Niagara Peninsula
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Braised Short Rib of Beef with Parsley Ravigote and Sweet Potatoes
2014 Cabernet Franc, VQA Niagara Peninsula
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Selection of Cheeses with Various Greens from the Garden
2015 Pinot Noir, VQA Niagara Peninsula
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Apple Strudel with Crème Anglaise and Damson Plum Purée
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Saturday October 7th, 2017 - An evening with Norman Hardie Winery and County Arborists
Hors d’Œuvres on the Ridge
JK Fries with Two Sauces
Pâté de Campagne with Cornichons
Reduced Tomato Canapé
Head Cheese Canapé
Marinated Eggplant Canapé
2016 Calcaire
Menu in the Loafing Barn
Roasted Squash Soup with Sunchoke
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Corn Crèpe with Mushrooms
2015 Chardonnay VQA Niagara Peninsula
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Griddled Sausage with Cabbage and Bitter Greens
2016 Pinot Noir VQA Niagara Peninsula
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Roast Porchetta with Cider Poached Apples
2016 Riesling, VQA Ontario
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Selection of Cheeses with Various Greens from the Garden
2015 Cabernet Franc, VQA Prince Edward County
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Sticky Toffee Pudding
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