In Praise of Fermentation
July 24, 2017 Missive from J.K. Farm
Although it looks as though the grape harvest will be slim this year, I am still excited by the other fermentation projects we have going on this summer. Humidity has been an issue this season with all the rain we have been getting. While this has been wonderful news for the garden, the grape vines have been less enthusiastic. Downy mildew and powdery mildew have set in. Again, I am reminded that a vineyard requires a considerable investment in labour in order to bear fruit. These vines are like children that never grow up. The same care and attention is required, in the same way, year after year. Of course the vines do mature in their own way. One is rewarded by the vine’s age if one is fortunate enough to be able to make a wine in any given year. Their roots explore deep into the subsoil in their quest for the water table. This exploration yields a snapshot of what is down there through the wine in the glass. Each passing year of vine maturity yields new elegance and complexity in the wine. This year the start of the season looked so promising. A wonderful fruit set bode well for a plentiful harvest. Then, very quickly, the vineyard slipped out of my control and I watched, in horror and amazement, as the optimism that was spring, had withered into dust. Failure is the best teacher. I cling to this truth and resolve to do better next year. For the remainder of this season, my best bet will be to care for the vines as best I can to prepare them to bear fruit next season.
In the meantime, I will pursue other forms of fermentation. Dill pickles are something I am thinking about today as I eat my salami sandwich. I consider the crisp pickling cucumber in its natural state, thick skinned and uninteresting to eat fresh. Then through the magic of lactic fermentation, the cucumber is transformed into a delicious counterpoint of texture and acidity in my salami sandwich. It also helps that the bread is a naturally fermented sourdough; rich and complex. I marvel at this transformation brought on by lactic fermentation. I look forward to fermenting all kinds of vegetables as they come into season this summer. Construction of the cold cellar is underway and I am looking forward to stocking the shelves.
This past weekend was certainly a celebration of fermentation as well. On Saturday evening beginning on the ridge, Dan Sullivan, winemaker at Rosehall Run shared his story of local provenance of wine to a sold out crowd at our summer dinner series. Even though I have known Dan and Lynn Sullivan for many years, I still learned new things as Dan stood and spoke to the wines. The Finisher, a wine he served with our summer trifle dessert was a one off project made from the rare and unusual combination of Ehrenfelser and Muscat ottenal. It was a delicious souvenir of an experimental planting. It paired beautifully with our dessert and offered a unique experience for our guests.
For our beer garden event on Sunday, curated by writer and beer lover, Jordan St. John and attended by 100 enthusiasts, my team transformed our dining room in the loafing barn to a beer garden with 6 craft breweries from around the province. There was a wonderful variety of styles and tastes for our guests to enjoy. DJ Shehan worked out of the drive shed providing a great summer afternoon soundtrack as our guests milled around the loafing barn sampling the beers and tasting food prepared by my team. Chef Anne held forth from inside dishing various salads and glazed chicken. Chase fired up the clay oven outside and baked vegetarian empanadas. Fry boys Jackson and Nile plied our guests with their signature French fries and braised beef poutine, while Don worked the tempura station with yellow perch and tartar sauce. Chef JK rounded it all out with griddle smashed hamburgers, with 2 year old Monforte cheddar and Aunt Myrtle’s mustard pickle. The rain held off and the afternoon slid gently by.
Saturday July 22, 2017 featuring Rosehall Run Vineyard
Hors d’Œuvres on the Ridge
JK Fries with Two Sauces
Duck Confit Croquettes
Vegetarian Ceviche on Free Form Potato Crisp
Mini Burgers with Mustard Pickle
Chilled Beet and Dill Soup
2016 Rosehall Run Indigo Sparkling Wine,
VQA Ontario
Menu in the Loafing Barn
Chicken Liver Mousse with Apple and Black Currant
N.V. Rosehall Run Ceremony Blanc de Blancs Brut,
VQA Prince Edward County
****
Warm Smoked Whitefish with Fine Green Beans
2016 Rosehall Run Hungry Point Unoaked Chardonnay,
VQA Prince Edward County
****
Grilled Sockeye Salmon with Ratatouille and Crispy Polenta
2014 Rosehall Run JCR Rosehall Vineyard Pinot Noir,
VQA Prince Edward County
****
Artisan Cheeses from Ontario and Québec with Salad from the Garden
2016 Rosehall Run Hungry Point Sauvignon Blanc,
VQA Prince Edward County
****
Summer Fruit Trifle
2013 Rosehall Run The Finisher - Liquoreux Vin de Dessert,
VQA Prince Edward County
****
Coffee or Tea
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Sunday July 23, 2017 J.K. Farm Beer Garden
Breweries selected by Jordan St. John:
Amsterdam, Mackinnon Brothers, Tooth and Nail, Sweetgrass, County Road & Parsons
Menu
Burgers with Monforte Cheddar
J.K. Fries
J.K. Braised Beef Poutine
Perch and Chips
Vegetarian Empanadas from the Clay Oven
Various Salads
BBQ Chicken
Photos from @chefjamiekennedy & @countyroadbeer