Polished Gems Around the Table
September 5, 2016 Missive from J.K. Farm
Bruno François said to me, “you know Jamie, what I have begun to realize is that more than making my way as a wine and cider maker, I value the friends I have made in the community that has grown here in Prince Edward County.” I agree with Bruno and I am fascinated by how the ground has shifted in this rural region. Historically Prince Edward County has had a vibrant economy based on the family farm and the communities surrounding the farms. There was even a railway that cut through the county, supplying the rest of the province and beyond with the garden bounty that existed here. Now the railway, long disused, has been re-purposed as a walking trail.
In the latter part of the 20th century Prince Edward County, like many rural places in Ontario, experienced an economic decline. Now, in the early part of the 21st century, there is a cultural renaissance going on. Entrepreneurial success stories are emerging from an exploration into re-defining rural economies. Many of these stories are being told around the table.
Bruno François and his partner Jens Korberg have been slowly building their vineyard and winery operation. In recent years, they have expanded their production to include cider and ginger beer. When we speak about gastronomy we are speaking about the art of dining which includes thoughtful combinations of foods and wines. Guests at our table this past Saturday evening had the opportunity to taste from their excellent portfolio and to hear Bruno unravel the mysteries of their provenance as they savoured the dishes we prepared in the kitchen.
The menu is composed on the Monday before the Saturday when it is served. As part of the creative process, I take my cue from what I am able to source right now from growers and fishers and gatherers in this area. Kendal Dewey is a commercial fisher who has been fishing the waters of Lake Ontario, surrounding Prince Edward County, for many years. Kendal and his wife Joanne joined us at the table as well this past Saturday evening. There are many delicious fish that live in the waters around here. Pickerel, whitefish and perch are perennial favourites, but there are also Ciscos (lake herring) crappie and bass. It was wonderful to hear Kendal speak. His remarks provided a contextual connection to the perch we served as part of the dinner.
As the evening wound down many people approached me to express their thanks and to say how much they appreciated hearing from both Kendal and Bruno. Their remarks furthered their understanding of the burgeoning food culture that is evolving in this region. They had gained a new understanding of the cultural process involved in the transformation of raw ingredients to finished dishes and wines. Like polished gems around the table. Oh if the dining experience were not ephemeral.
